Parts of a Sewing Machine
Parts and Operation of a Sewing Machine
On/Off switch
Handwheel
Used when you need to control exactly where stitching ends, or if something gets jammed, or to turn a corner
ONLY pull towards yourself
DON’T PULL BACKWARDS – it could mess with the machine’s timing
Timing
When the thread wraps around the bobbin thread
Stitch Selection Dial/Panel
Stitch Length Selector
Stitch length is how far FORWARD the needle moves before creating the next stitch
Stitch Width Selector
Stitch width is how far SIDE TO SIDE the needle moves to create the stitch
Tension Dial
The tension dial controls how much tension is placed on the needle thread
Tension discs put tension on the needle thread
The higher the number the higher the tension, and vice versa.
Uptake lever
Needs to be all the way up for stitch to be finished
Spool Pins
Bobbin Winder
Pressure Dial
Feed dogs
They move the fabric, the sewist just guides/steers
Bobbin
Bobbins are BRAND SPECIFIC
Needle/throat plate
Seam allowance guides
CM vs In
Needle
Needle Clamp
Presser Foot
Must be down to sew
Must be up to thread the machine
KEEP FINGERS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THIS AREA TO PREVENT SEWING THROUGH YOUR FINGER
Backstitch Lever or Button
Foot Peddle
Free Arm
Presser Feet (for different applications)
Cutter
Tools/Materials + Reminders and Troubleshooting
Getting Started
Tools/Materials
Cutting Tools
fabric shears or rotary cutter
NEVER use on anything but fabric
Snips
paper scissors
pinking shears
edge finishing
cutting mat (if using rotary cutter)
pattern weights (if using rotary cutter)
glass-head pins and/or clips
pin cushion
seam ripper
marking pens, chalk pencil, or tailor’s chalk
iron and ironing board (optional, pressing ham and seam roll)
tape measure
seam gauge
clear rulers
sewing machine
Thread
Using high quality thread is better for your project and your machines. Gutermann is a good brand.
There are different kinds of machines sewing thread, including:
100% polyester
Strong, stretchy
100% cotton (good for dying)
Smooth, blends well
Silk
Strong, smooth, dyeable
Expensive
Needles
Every sewing machine manufacturer will recommend a certain brand of needles. It’s best to follow these recommendations.
Sewing Needles must be changed VERY regularly
A couple of small projects or one big one (8 hours of sewing)
Old needles will impact timing, cause skipped stitches, etc.
If there’s a noise while sewing, change the needle!
There are lots of different types for different fabrics and applications
Universal – can be used for many different projects
Jersey – best for stretch fabrics
Microtex – very sharp delicate fabrics
Denim – heavy duty for bottom weight fabrics
The numbers correspond to the width of the needle
The thinner the needle, the lower the number, the thicker the needle, the higher the number.
Thinner needles are better for lighter weight fabric, the thicker the needle the better for heavyweight fabric
70/10 skinny
80/12 medium
90/14 thick needle
Basic Safety
Use sharp tools
Don’t sew when tired, ill, under the influence, stressed, frustrated, or rushing
DON’T PUT PINS IN YOUR MOUTH
Don’t sew over pins
They can break and go flying
Don’t sew with old or bent needles
Turn off your machine before changing needle or doing maintenance
Dispose of sharps in a designated sharps container
Always unplug iron and machines when not in use
Spray adhesives can be unhealthy to breathe and can stay in the fabrics permanently (chemicals)
Don’t run the machine without fabric to sew through - it’s not meant to stitch without fabric
Reminders
Backstitch at the beginning AND end of every seam
You can put the needle down with the handwheel to make sure you like the placement
We are GUIDING the fabric, not pushing or pulling
Keep fingers out of the way of the needle
The stitch is not completed until the uptake lever is all the way up
ALWAYS TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARDS YOURSELF
Always leave the thread tails pretty long so they don’t get sucked into the machine
You can trim the thread tails short on your work as long as you have backstitched
Thread the machine with the PRESSER FOOT UP.
PRESS EVERY SEAM. This is the difference between a professional finish and a sloppy one.
Sew a Tester
ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS sew a tester on the same or similar fabric before sewing on your project
Check to make sure the tension, length, width, etc. are all set up well and you like how the seam is turning out
Troubleshooting
First thing to do for ANY issue step is to check all your stitch settings
Next step is rethread the machine and remove and re-insert the bobbin.
If that doesn’t work, rewind the bobbin and and re-insert.
If that doesn’t work, stop trying and come back and try later (sometimes you just need a break, and when you come back, the problem is solved! I can’t tell you how many times it has happened this way for me.)
If that doesn’t work, take it to the nearest dealer for maintenance and/or help.
Reminders:
Dirty machines can cause skipped stitches, other issues
Try to use good quality thread and fabric
Change needle regularly
Keep dust covers on top when not in use
Thread should always move forward through machine
Basic Maintenance
About once a month.
Remove the presser foot and needle, then unscrew the throat plate and remove. Remove the bobbin case. Get out lint.
NEVER use an air spray canister. It can push lint further into your machine.
Any other maintenance dictated by the manual.
Professional maintenance once a year.
Construction Terms and Common Stitches
Construction Terms and Common Stitches
Seam: the place where two pieces of fabric are joined together by stitching
Seam allowance: The distance from the seam to the edge of the fabric
Why?
If we sew our seam right on the edge of the fabric, the seam won’t be as strong and will ultimately unravel.
When you’re ready to sew a seam you must first select your stitch and stitch settings
There are MANY different stitches for different applications
Decorative Stitches
Functional stitches for different fabric types and uses
Straight stitch is the most commonly used machine sewing stitch
Strong Stitch that makes a tidy seam
Almost all seams will be sewn with the straight stitch
Used in garment sewing, quilting, etc.
Zig zag stitch is another common stitch
Used for certain types of fabric and applications
Stitch Length:
How far forward the stitch goes
The shorter the stitch, the stronger it is (and the harder it is to remove if you need to)
2.5 standard - great for medium weight fabrics
Longer length for thicker fabric, shorter stitch length for thinner fabric
Different stitch lengths for different applications
1 would be very close together - good for securing areas with a lot of stress
4 – 6 would be fairly far apart - good for a basting (temporary, removable) stitch
Stitch Width
How far side to side the stitch goes
Not all stitches have width
For straight stitch, this dial will move where your needle is
Will impact seam allowance lines
The zig zag stitch is an example of a stitch that has width
Stitch Tension
How are stitches made?
Two strands of thread form every machine sewn stitch
Needle thread
Bobbin thread
Sewing machines create a “lockstitch” - the two threads should interlock between the two pieces of fabric
The correct amount of tension will produce balanced seams
The thread interlocks between the two pieces of fabric
Incorrect tension results in unbalanced seams
Bobbin thread showing on the top = too much tension.
To resolve, turn the tension dial to a lower number
Needle thread showing on the bottom means not enough tension.
To resolve, turn the tension dial to a higher number.
Higher tension is often needed for thicker fabrics, and lower tension for lighter fabrics
Backstitch
Going back over sections we’ve already sewn – this is how we secure the beginning and end of our seams so they don’t pull apart.
EVERY TIME. VERY IMPORTANT.
Steps to Sewing
Steps to machine sewing:
Wind a bobbin
Thread the machine
Make sure presser foot is up for threading
Select stitch
Set stitch width
Set stitch length
Set stitch tension
Sew tester on the same or similar fabric before sewing on your project in order to check your tension and make sure everything is threaded correctly
Line up the fabric under the presser foot along the correct seam allowance line
Lower the presser foot
Sew for several inches
Check for balanced seam
Pin your project (if needed)
Line up the fabric under the presser foot along the correct seam allowance line
Lower the presser foot
Sew, backstitching at the beginning and end of seam
Remove the pins as you go
DON’T SEW OVER PINS
Fabric 101
Fabric 101
Fabric Characteristics
There are four main characteristics of fabric: structure, fiber content, and weight.
Four characteristics of fabric:
Structure
Knit
Stretchy
Doesn’t fray
Woven
Only stretchy on bias
Unravels
More stable, easier to sew than knits
Bonded
The fibers have been chemically bonded together
No stretch
Doesn’t fray
Content
Natural fibers
Cotton
Linen
Wool
Silk
Bamboo
Synthetic Fibers
Polyester
Elastic
Semi-Synthetic
Rayon
Viscose
Modal
Lyocell
Weight
The thickness or heaviness of the fabric per yard or meter
The heavier the fabric, the thicker/stronger; the lighter the fabric, the thinner/more delicate
The application (dress, pillow, purse, doll, etc.) will determine what type of fabric to use
Not all fabric will work for any given pattern
Can’t use denim to make a flowy dress
Can’t use chiffon to make a structural jacket
Surface Design
Solid
No pattern, solid color
Directional
There is a clear direction that the surface pattern goes in (there is a top and a bottom)
Must take great care when cutting pattern pieces
Non-directional
No clear top or bottom
Patterned fabric but is not directional
Nap
The fabric has a raised texture - velvet and corderoy are examples
Must take great care when cutting pattern pieces
Key Fabric Terms
Right Side/Wrong Side
The “right side” is the public side or the side that should be facing out when the garment is “right side out”
The “wrong side” is the private side, or the part that should be facing in, or touching your body, when the garment is right side out.
Some fabrics don’t have a distinct right side or wrong side
Selvage
The edges of the fabric as it comes off the bolt
Not meant to be used in in a project
Grainlines in Woven Fabrics
Straight Grain – parallel to selvage line
Cutting “on grain” or “cut on the grainline”
Aligned with the warp threads, parallel to the selvedges
This grainline tends to be strongest
Least stretchy
Cross Grain – perpendicular to selvage
Aligned with the weft threads
Slightly more stretch than the straight grain
It is ok to cut on the cross grain as a design feature
Bias Grain – 45 degree angle from selvage and cross grain
The stretchiest part of the fabric
Only cut on the bias is the pattern says so
Cutting off grain:
Can cause it to twist or warp as you wear it
Can sometimes be seen visually, like for a gingham
When to ignore the grainline:
If your fabric was printed way off grain, you may need to cut it off grain so that the print looks ok. Remember that this will result in an off-grain item.
Grainlines in Knits
Find the little vertical ridges lines – this is your straight grain
Vertical stretch vs horizontal stretch
Horizontal usually has more stretch, but not always
You want the most stretch to go around your body
Fabric Preparation
For garments, ALWAYS PREWASH YOUR FABRIC on the settings you plan to use for your finished garment
For quilts, some people prewash, some people don’t.
Iron your fabric before cutting
Helpful Links
Grainlines - a short explainer
Grainlines - in depth