Construction Terms and Common Stitches

Construction Terms and Common Stitches

• Seam: the place where two pieces of fabric are joined together by stitching

• Seam allowance: The distance from the seam to the edge of the fabric

  • Why? 

    • If we sew our seam right on the edge of the fabric, the seam won’t be as strong and will ultimately unravel.

• When you’re ready to sew a seam you must first select your stitch and stitch settings

• There are MANY different stitches for different applications

  • Decorative Stitches

  • Functional stitches for different fabric types and uses

• Straight stitch is the most commonly used machine sewing stitch 

  • Strong Stitch that makes a tidy seam

  • Almost all seams will be sewn with the straight stitch

  • Used in garment sewing, quilting, etc.

• Zig zag stitch is another common stitch

  • Used for certain types of fabric and applications

• Stitch Length:

  • How far forward the stitch goes

  • The shorter the stitch, the stronger it is (and the harder it is to remove if you need to)

  • 2.5 standard - great for medium weight fabrics

  • Longer length for thicker fabric, shorter stitch length for thinner fabric

  • Different stitch lengths for different applications

    • 1 would be very close together - good for securing areas with a lot of stress

    • 4 – 6 would be fairly far apart - good for a basting (temporary, removable) stitch

• Stitch Width

  • How far side to side the stitch goes

  • Not all stitches have width

    • For straight stitch, this dial will move where your needle is

      • Will impact seam allowance lines

  • The zig zag stitch is an example of a stitch that has width 

• Stitch Tension

  • How are stitches made?

    • Two strands of thread form every machine sewn stitch

      • Needle thread

      • Bobbin thread

    • Sewing machines create a “lockstitch” - the two threads should interlock between the two pieces of fabric

      • The correct amount of tension will produce balanced seams

        • The thread interlocks between the two pieces of fabric

      • Incorrect tension results in unbalanced seams

        • Bobbin thread showing on the top = too much tension. 

          • To resolve, turn the tension dial to a lower number

        • Needle thread showing on the bottom means not enough tension.

          • To resolve, turn the tension dial to a higher number.

    • Higher tension is often needed for thicker fabrics, and lower tension for lighter fabrics

• Backstitch

  • Going back over sections we’ve already sewn – this is how we secure the beginning and end of our seams so they don’t pull apart.

  • EVERY TIME. VERY IMPORTANT.