Tools/Materials + Reminders and Troubleshooting

Written By Rachel Melnyk

Tools/Materials

  • Cutting Tools

    • fabric shears or rotary cutter

      • NEVER use on anything but fabric 

    • Snips

    • paper scissors

    • pinking shears

      • edge finishing

  • cutting mat (if using rotary cutter)

  • pattern weights (if using rotary cutter)

  • glass-head pins and/or clips

  • pin cushion

  • seam ripper

  • marking pens, chalk pencil, or tailor’s chalk

  • iron and ironing board (optional, pressing ham and seam roll)

  • tape measure

  • seam gauge

  • clear rulers

  • sewing machine

Thread

  • Using high quality thread is better for your project and your machines. Gutermann is a good brand.

  • There are different kinds of machines sewing thread, including:

    • 100% polyester

      • Strong, stretchy

    • 100% cotton (good for dying)

      • Smooth, blends well

    • Silk

      • Strong, smooth, dyeable

      • Expensive

Needles

  • Every sewing machine manufacturer will recommend a certain brand of needles. It’s best to follow these recommendations.

  • Sewing Needles must be changed VERY regularly

    • A couple of small projects or one big one (8 hours of sewing)

    • Old needles will impact timing, cause skipped stitches, etc.

    • If there’s a noise while sewing, change the needle!

  • There are lots of different types for different fabrics and applications

    • Universal – can be used for many different projects

    • Jersey – best for stretch fabrics

    • Microtex – very sharp delicate fabrics

    • Denim – heavy duty for bottom weight fabrics

  • The numbers correspond to the width of the needle

    • The thinner the needle, the lower the number, the thicker the needle, the higher the number.

    • Thinner needles are better for lighter weight fabric, the thicker the needle the better for heavyweight fabric

    • 70/10 skinny

    • 80/12 medium

    • 90/14 thick needle

Basic Safety 

  • Use sharp tools

  • Don’t sew when tired, ill, under the influence, stressed, frustrated, or rushing

  • DON’T PUT PINS IN YOUR MOUTH

  • Don’t sew over pins

    • They can break and go flying

  • Don’t sew with old or bent needles

  • Turn off your machine before changing needle or doing maintenance

  • Dispose of sharps in a designated sharps container

  • Always unplug iron and machines when not in use

  • Spray adhesives can be unhealthy to breathe and can stay in the fabrics permanently (chemicals)

  • Don’t run the machine without fabric to sew through - it’s not meant to stitch without fabric

Reminders

  • Backstitch at the beginning AND end of every seam

  • You can put the needle down with the handwheel to make sure you like the placement

  • We are GUIDING the fabric, not pushing or pulling

  • Keep fingers out of the way of the needle

  • The stitch is not completed until the uptake lever is all the way up

  • ALWAYS TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARDS YOURSELF

  • Always leave the thread tails pretty long so they don’t get sucked into the machine

    • You can trim the thread tails short on your work as long as you have backstitched

  • Thread the machine with the PRESSER FOOT UP.

  • PRESS EVERY SEAM. This is the difference between a professional finish and a sloppy one.

  • Sew a Tester

    • ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS sew a tester on the same or similar fabric before sewing on your project

    • Check to make sure the tension, length, width, etc. are all set up well and you like how the seam is turning out

Troubleshooting

  • First thing to do for ANY issue step is to check all your stitch settings

  • Next step is rethread the machine and remove and re-insert the bobbin. 

  • If that doesn’t work, rewind the bobbin and and re-insert.

  • If that doesn’t work, stop trying and come back and try later (sometimes you just need a break, and when you come back, the problem is solved! I can’t tell you how many times it has happened this way for me.)

  • If that doesn’t work, take it to the nearest dealer for maintenance and/or help.

  • Reminders:

    • Dirty machines can cause skipped stitches, other issues

    • Try to use good quality thread and fabric

    • Change needle regularly

    • Keep dust covers on top when not in use

    • Thread should always move forward through machine

Basic Maintenance

  • About once a month.

    • Remove the presser foot and needle, then unscrew the throat plate and remove. Remove the bobbin case. Get out lint.

    • NEVER use an air spray canister. It can push lint further into your machine. 

    • Any other maintenance dictated by the manual.

  • Professional maintenance once a year.

Rachel Melnyk
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Construction Terms and Common Stitches